You would think that as an inanimate object, a plant would stay where you put it. However, inanimate is not the most accurate term for something that in certain cases can grow nearly a foot a day. Slowly animate would be more precise. Ruthlessly, persistently, and insidiously animate would be much closer to the truth.
It all starts off so small and barren. I am talking about the garden each year. Even though I have gone through this for decades and know the chaos that ultimately results, each year at the beginning it looks so peaceful. Look at it. So sweet and reasonable. Look at all those cute little plants - vegetable puppies really.
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| Look at them all getting along in their own spaces all compact and orderly... |
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| Then bam! Out comes the vegetable equivalent of a shiv. |
Okay, so that is a 'bit' melodramatic, but honestly I do think they would stab each other if they could.
I have learned a lot in my gardening efforts about proper spacing of plants, mostly through trial and error- with the emphasis very heavy on error. If you don't give your plants enough room they will take it by force if necessary and bad things will happen. Bad things like plants being smothered, bugs having a heyday in the congested mess and fruit being lost in the jungle until it must be registered as a weapon (ah yes, the cucumber baseball bat).
I have also learned a lot about what works as a containment system for plants through again, many, many failures. If the garden plants were a business, every year they would meet and exceed their forecasted growth.
So now in my umpteenth year of organic gardening I will share with you my vegetable containment experience on what does and does not work.
Tomato Cages
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| My Tomato Supermax prison |
Tomatoes are absolutely the worst plant to contain. This is not just my opinion, but one that is shared by every other gardener as evidenced by the enormous industry that is devoted to tomato caging systems. Entire companies are built around the desire of gardeners to have some way to control tomatoes. The problem is that tomatoes do not desire to be controlled. They are in truth a vine although we think of them more like a bush. They are a vine with multiple branches that can grow seven to ten feet in length.
To try and contain these vine like bushes, there are many different types of tomato cages on the market. For example:
These are all great looking and seem like they will do a splendid job, except for one small detail. In none of these images do we actually see a live tomato plant using the cage. These are artist depictions and perhaps that is why they are so effective in selling the products. They offer the buyer the illusion of tomato control. They indicate that the solution to the 'tomato problem' is easily remedied by the application of money to the purchase of a simple device. It is all great if what you are wanting is a beautiful fantasy. The unfortunate reality is that tomatoes don't want to be controlled. Tomatoes are hulking beasts ready to burst forth on the planet with vegetable furor. Take for example this scenario:
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| Here we have a cute little tomato plant just a couple of months old.
Look how dignified it seems all happy in its provided space. There is
plenty of room to grow and lots of space. Bunches of space. |
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| Here it is just two months later. You can practically see it slobbering in
its mad determination to escape the cage. And it is just getting
started. Within the next two months it will be growing over seven feet
tall and spreading an additional seven feet if it gets its way (somewhat Triffid like, don't you think?). |
You can get good tomato cages, but you have to know what to look for.
The best tomato cages for sale are robust and tall and also
conveniently collapse down after the season so you don't have to resort
to an arc welder to break them apart the next year you want to use
them.
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| They don't look as pretty all tangled... |
The problem with the best tomato cages for sale is that they ask a
substantial price for them. It is a good business because desperate
tomato growers will pay practically anything to solve the tomato
dilemma.
But you don't have to pay a lot for your tomato cages. You can also build them. Effective tomato cages are built by people who have tried the fantasy offerings and found themselves outpaced by the relentless growth of a plant who once established will not cease in its quest to sprawl. There are many inventive designs out there by folk who have dealt with this menace and found their own solutions.
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| This gardener understands tomatoes. |
There are also a whole bunch of things that are more 'experimental' and good intentions than actual tried and true solutions. My personal journey into someone else's solution was the 'Florida weave method'.
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| I ran across this method and was intrigued by the simplicity. Just a couple of stakes and some string. |
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| Some of the images were a little more complex, but the system was very simple. |
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| Basically, you just place your plants between the poles and then weave the string front and back of the plants. As they grow, you just add another layer of string. There were many, many different examples and lots of directions of how to make this system work. |
One year I set my entire gardening support system up with this method, including tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. It was not hard to set up and not hard initially to wind around the plants, but without direct staking overhead, the plants would droop. I found I had to bind them very tightly and to add string about every other day to stay ahead of the growth. Because the plants shared the support system, their growth merged and soon their combined growth created an impenetrable mass. This made it difficult to pick fruit, or even find fruit. It also unfortunately led to the demise of my tomato crop that year. One plant from a nursery brought in a case of late blight, which due to the entwined growth of the plants soon spread to every tomato plant and decimated the crop.
It also left me with several hundred feet of string which promptly became a tangle mass. I gave up on the Florida weave after my first year with it.
My final tomato solution has been the 3/4 cage made of wire fencing and very tall bamboo poles.
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| Bamboo poles (3) support the front and back. You simply roll out a section of fence, cut it and then wrap it loosely around the poles. I suggest the tallest poles you can find. This design will allow you to add fencing to the top of the set up, using the poles for support. |
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| This is not a perfect method in that the tomatoes still try to escape. |
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| They also must be bound in on the open side. Yet, it is this open side that makes this cage so effective. From this opening you will be able to reach the entire tomato plant which will aid picking fruit as well as keeping the plant neat. I have found that trimming out excess leaves and branches is essential to maintaining a robustly growing tomato plant. The wideness of this cage allows the plant to be contained within it (for the most part) without further binding. Those shoots that grow outside the cage can easily be tied to the outside of the structure. |
The top of the cage has to be added to as they grow ever taller, but this is easy to do with separate pieces of the same fencing material.. This system has been the best for support and also allows me to segregate the tomatoes to prevent the sharing of diseases and pests.
Cucumber Trellis
Cucumbers love to be trellised. Well, let me correct that. Cucumbers love to grow their little vines up and over things. They are not discriminating in what they will climb on. If you happen to stand still too long near the cucumber patch it is possible they will begin to climb you.
Cucumbers also have these little tendrils that reach out and upon coming into contact with something, will begin to wind around it, pulling the vine of the plant near. These little tendrils seem heart-breakingly dear and tender until they are wrapped around something they should not be climbing on and resist with impressive tensile strength your attempts to remove them. This results in the dear little tendril breaking, or with equal likelihood, the plant it was attached to breaking.
I have experimented with several trellis supports for cucumbers, including 'teepee', The Florida Weave, and single poles. The best method I have come across is using wire fencing strung between two fence posts.
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| Simple, effective and rather boring... |
Now, one might think with such an excellent support system ready and waiting for them, the dear little cucumber plants would rush to climb their trellis. However, I believe that cucumber plants are basically very near sighted and refuse to wear glasses. They stumble around with their arms outstretched in various directions which typically does not include the trellis. Once their little 'hands' have touched something they will latch on. Taking them off is the equivalent of removing a clutching cat from a bath towel. They cling.
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| Even with these 'guides' trying to direct it to the trellis, this cucumber plant is still reeling about drunkenly waving it tendrils in random directions. |
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| Here again is the guide pulling it toward the trellis while the cucumber leans vigorously away. Don't think it is just 'growing toward the light'. They grow in multiple directions at once, each plant just heading out randomly in a chaotic pattern. |
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| This one looks like it might continue toward the trellis, but who knows. Let it grow another day or two and I might find it turned 90 degrees and latched onto a passing bird. |
So the cucumber, excellent climbers that they are, need assistance and constant monitoring. They grow quickly and are quite fussy about having their direction changed. They will pout with leaves all mussed up for about three days if you let them start growing in a direction then move them.
Their constant need of constraint caused me to look into various means of bondage.
Twine, Bands and other Bondage Devices
Here again is a topic that is very near and dear to the hearts of gardeners everywhere. We seek out things to tie up our plants and are always looking for new and different ways to do it. Mind you I am pretty sure most gardeners stop short of handcuffs, but considering some of the plant mayhem in the average garden I am sure some of us have thought about it.
Of course businesses are there to make sure we have all of our plant securing needs met.
For me though, I prefer two different choices:
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| It does have a disadvantage in that it won't stay tied with just one or two knots. I get around this by using slip knots and the fact that it unties relatively easily helps me reuse it. |
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| My favorite of favorite gardening bondage devices is panty hose. I am not talking about using the hose intact. What you do is cut the hose into multiple bands. You can get about 60 ties from each pair of queen sized panty hose. You will have most from the legs which can stretch to about a foot long loop. You will also have longer lengths from the waist area of the hose which are tougher and can stretch about three feet or more depending on whether you get a control top version of panty hose. |
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Using pantyhose for the garden delights me in a number of ways. The bands are very soft, resilient and easy to use. Being a loop, it can be bound with one end around the trellis and then the other end can just be placed around the plant. They can be reused year after year. You can find panty hose for $1 or less per pack which means
60 bands for very little cost. But most of all. Most of all - they
are the best thing ever to do with panty hose. Forget wearing the
cursed things - I make my plants wear them.
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That's all for now. I just know those cucumbers are meandering off in some random direction.
Happy Gardening!
